Pilsen Czech Republic

After a brief stop at Lidl in Cham, Germany, we crossed the border into Czech Republic. 

We strolled around Miru Square in the old town of Domazlice, lined with many prominent buildings and arcades, a reflection of it being part of the Austrian monarchy until 1918. 

We got some Czk cash from the atm (exchange was czk15/aud1 or czk25/€1). 

We continued on through the countryside avoiding the toll roads as we have not bought a vignette as we are only popping in for a couple of days. 

We arrived  just after 12  at the free motorhome parking area on the outskirts of Pilsen.

We took bus #21 (only leaves every hour on the weekends) a couple of stops then took #4 tram a short distance into the old town. 

We were told at the information office that there was a burger festival at the brewery, so having not eaten lunch and being 2pm we made our way there. We booked tickets to do the English tour at the brewery and then had a burger and of course a Pilsner Urquell beer, as this is where it is brewed. 

The nearly 2 hour tour (czk380/A$25/€15 pp) was very informative. It was in 1842 that the first batch of bottom-fermented lager was made. The Pilsner/Pils type brew has become the common name for pale ale of the same type. The brewery was built by the people of Pilsen coming together to create a now world wide renowned beer, so it made us sad for the Czech people that it has been bought out by the Japanese owned brand Asahi.

The area is huge … its own suburb. They even use the water found underneath from 3 wells. They need 3 litres of water for 1 litre of beer.

The way the individual brewers used to make the beer.

The brewing process was explained in great detail as we were taken through the operating areas. 

As well as the bottling plant (unfortunately it was cleaning day so didn’t see it working). 

That’s a lot of beer per day.. 1,440,000 litres 

Then down into the cool historic cellars. 

We ended up with a glass of pure unfiltered beer which is cloudier and stronger tasting than the typical filtered beer bought everywhere else.

As we came back out into the sunlight it was still quite hot. So we walked back to the main square which is one of the largest in the country. 

There were some lovely buildings including The Imperial House. 

We also had a peak in the gothic cathedral situated in the middle of the square. 

We stopped in a pub for an early dinner enjoying another beer and a shared meal. 

Then we managed to time our return back to Bluey so that we didn’t have to wait 1hr for the bus. 

145km today.

Along the Danube Canal Germany

It was another busy and enjoyable day exploring numerous villages along the Main Danube Canal which was built in 1992 and runs from Bamberg to Kelheim, connecting the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea, providing a navigable artery between the Rhine delta (in Rotterdam) to the Danube delta (in Romania). Amazing! We were surprised not to see much water traffic on there.

The dreaded red cross over destinations are too common here in Germany and you sign with relief when it’s not your route even so, with the detours, we eventually get there. 

We began our day in Beilngries, parking in a 2hr blue zone close to the old centre. Our breakfast apple strudel was delicious if not the healthiest. 

Never fear if the shops and restaurants are closed there is always another option..

We then managed to get an English map from the tourist office and so off we went to see the main sights. 

The church (built 1913) had beautiful coloured tiles.

Thought the confessional boxes were a bit thin…

Opening the door revealed that it was recessed into the wall.

There were numerous towers built into the wall surrounding the village, each had a distinct use.

The ‘overseer of the fields’ tower was in charge of punishing those who damaged fields and committed crimes in the pastures of woods.

In the Wailer’s tower there lived the woman who laid out the departed and said prayers for them.

The Bailiff tower was to supervise the poor and made sure that wandering beggars did not stay too long.

The Burghers tower was the prison for the locals.

There was even the Keeper of the Pigs tower for when during the Middle Ages domestic animals were prohibited to stay out at night and so herdsmen looked after them.

The fellow who was in charge of supplying water to the brewery, was deemed important enough to also have his own tower to live in. 

The keeper of the horses lived in this tower.

We also had a look in the church of our lady.

The metal rings on the bin are for the recycling of the glass beer bottles.

First time I’ve seen a hummingbird hawk moth.

The toy museum  which the town is renowned for was closed, only opening in the afternoon.

Unfortunately it was too early for us to try out their local beer. However, when we walked passed the cafe there were people already drinking beer! 

Back in Bluey we continued along the canal, our next stop was Dietfurt, a village known as the Bavarian China. They had a cute China man fountain. We wandered around for a bit before heading off again. 

Riedenburg is also situated in the Altmuhl Valley. We strolled around and of course had to look inside the church. Again we leave without trying the local beer.

Surrounding the town on the limestone cliffs several castles could be seen as we drive onto the next village, some in ruins, others well preserved. 

This included Prunn Castle (1575) set atop a crag.

The next stop was at a roadside picnic area next to a very picturesque village, Essing, situated between a small canal and the limestone cliffs.

We ventured over the bridge and through the town gate to discover that there was the Schneider Brewery and a restaurant. 

Brewery restaurant under the red umbrellas

So being lunchtime we enjoyed the local beer and sausage in a beautiful setting.

Up on the hill above Kelheim and the Danube, the Liberation Hall (Befreiungshalle) was built in 1863, to commemorate the victory over Napoleon in 1815. 

It is a massive 18 sided polygon that is supported by buttresses with 18 5.8m tall statues - allegories of the German tribes. 

The domed hall has a 45m high coffered ceiling. It is surrounded by 34 white marbled Goddesses of Victory that symbolise the 34 states of the German confederation. 

We walked up the 165 steps to the lookout platform and take our time enjoying the views. We thought it was worth the €5 parking and the €4.50each entrance into the building. 

Once again we were in search for some shade as the temperature climbs, which proves a bit tricky but eventually find one on our route at Guggenberger See (next to a lake) for €13pn (Our first paid overnight stay in 35 days).

129km today