Cantabria Spain

Day 28  Monday 1 June 2026

Its another day on the windy country roads of Spain in the hinterland of Cantabria region between Santander and Bilbao. We stopped at numerous villages until 145km later we reached Artziniega.

It wasn’t a great nights sleep… we weren’t too sure if it was the combination of red wine, chocolate and a coffee or the barking dogs that seemed to go all night. Either way we were happy to get out of bed and begin the day. We used the dump point before leaving then we drove north along the Besaya Valley to our first stop, PEUNTE VIESGO. It is home to one of the most important groups of prehistoric caverns in the region which have outstanding thick-lined, ochre-coloured paintings adorning the walls. It appears all are closed on Mondays. So we strolled around the small town that is mainly large hotels due to it being a health spa resort since the eighteenth century visited for its medicinal waters, which rise from a spring. 

We continued on N630 to LIERGANES. Declared a town of national historic interest in 1978, due to its classical architecture of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It also experienced an economic boom due to the artillery factory during the same period.  We began our tour at the Roman Bridge where the legend of the Fish-Man - Francisco de la Vega, who was born in the town in 1660, threw himself into the Miera River and disappeared into the Cantabrian Sea. It is said that he was located years later, having lost his reason and speech, in the Bay of Cádiz. We then went to gaze at the lovely buildings.

Thats a statue of him we think at the base of the bridge

From here we went up to ALISAS PASS 674m alt. Which offered some amazing views across the valley and mountains down to Santander.

Lots of eucalyptus plantations… loved the smell

Down in the next valley we stopped in RAMALES de la VICTORIA. We did a quick shop at a Lupa store..a bit like a Lidl.

Then go for a walk through the centre of town. Unfortunately the churches are closed but we see enough and continue on.

Its a wiggly drive down to BALMASEDA  which is the oldest town in Biscay. Founded a long time ago, it quickly gained importance as it became a strategic commercial and customs centre. The city preserves many vestiges of its medieval past : cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, an atmosphere from another time...

We walk over the old bridge and through the historic centre with its impressive buildings…

It was lunch time so we kept our eyes pealed for a restaurant. We ended up at Tieke which had a modern feel and surprised us with their offer of a 3 course lunch with wine for €19.50. It was delicious.. a seafood type risotto for entree. Mark had pork shoulder and I had fish in a lemon butter sauce.

 I couldn’t help myself and had to try the Dubia chocolate brownie for desert wow! It was very rich but so yummy even tho its doesn't look the best.

Feeling full we had a stroll through town back to Bluey. It was only another 13km to the next village, ARTZINIEGA, but it was probably the windiest of the day. So by the time we parked up in the aire it was time to have a bit of a rest before walking into town to have a look around.  

It is a beautiful medieval town nestled among mountains in the historical territory of Alava in the Basque Country. The well-preserved medieval center has been declared an official Historical Monument Complex and is comprised of three parallel streets linked by narrow lanes. The beautiful buildings that line the streets display a variety of architectural styles.

145km today