Day 12, 16th May 2026
We had a busy day exploring the Templar and Hospitalier villages of the Larzac. The architectural wealth of the area through these major fortified sites offer an exceptional testimony to a fascinating history.
We departed from our stay in Alzon, after a peaceful night and headed to La Cavalerie, which is a fortified village, located on the Larzac plateau. Founded in the twelfth century by the Knights Templar of Larzac, the town was fortified in the fifteenth century by the Knights Hospitaller. After suffering significant damage during the wars of religion, the walls have since been fully restored. We have breakfast and wait for a shower to pass before we set off to explore.
Next was Sainte-Eulalie-de-Cernon. After purchasing the little church in 1152, the Knights Templar moved onto the Larzac and the village became the main commandery of the Order. The village has retained its authentic feel and the medieval streets are a lovely place to wander around.
Opening onto a gorgeous square typical of the South of France with a fountain in the cool shade of plane trees, the castle built by the Knights Templar is flanked by buttresses and a high square tower. Although it has been modified over the centuries, it is architecturally very impressive.
In Le Viala-du-Pas-deJaux the Knights Hospitallers found a more economical solution to ramparts and built 30 m high refuge tower instead. It was after the dissolution of the Templar Order in 1312, the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem inherited their possessions so they set about regrouping a few scattered farms and they decided to build a church dedicated to St-Jean Le Baptiste resulting in the village of Le Viala. A century later, during the Hundred Years’ War, bands of looters scoured the land of the Grands Causses. At the request of the village’s inhabitants, the knights erected this 5 level refuge tower, where the population could store their crops and take shelter in case of danger.
We bought tickets @ €6 each to see this recently (1990’s) restored tower, learning of its history. From the top of the roof terrace we enjoyed the 360° views of the surrounding landscapes.
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| There was a rally and people dressed as templars |
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| Mark had steak and me the duck |
The it was off to see the last of the Templar villages, Saint-Jean d’Alcas, a small Medieval village built around a walled Templier fortress dating from the 15th century. It remained, until the French Revolution, a symbol of the power of the Ladies of Nonenque, the neighbouring Cistercian nuns who had administered this territory since the 12th century.
Roquefort-sur-Soulzon is a small village in Aveyron, famous throughout the world for its cheese. Clinging to the limestone cliffs of Combalou, it offers an exceptional natural setting. Roquefort, a blue-veined sheep's cheese, is matured in the village's natural cellars, at constant temperature and humidity. These special conditions give the cheese its unique taste. We go and visit one of the producers, Gabriel Coulet. The company was founded in 1872. There is a storefront in the main street and is not only selling the typical blue cheese but they are also producing it. Behind the store in the limestone are vast cheese maturing cellars built into the natural caves. We go to visit the complimentary tour of the original cave. Then do a tasting and of course buy some cheese…
It was then time to call it a day and we decide to stay in the huge terraced carpark with a few other motorhomes.
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| 74km today |
