Ohrid Macedonia

Travelled:32km

Stay: Ohrid- free mixed parking next to lake near fort N41.1185 E20.7864

Visited: Ohrid old town

We woke up to a cool and sunny morning and we had even put jumpers on! We had another look at the lake from this vantage point before heading off towards Ohrid. Along the way we stopped to have a look at ‘The Bay of Bones’, a reconstructed pile-dwelling settlement which was thought to have been here in 1200 - 700BC. 

We also called in at a camp ground who kindly let us empty our cassette toilet for free. We passed a few little towns before arriving at the resort town of Ohrid. It had once been the capital of the 1st Bulgarian Empire during the 10th century.  We found an atm and got some Macedonian Denar (€1=60mkd). Then we went in search for some parking and eventually ended up on the western side of the town in a large parking area close to the lake. We joined an Austrian motorhome that had a cute little car that attracted a lot of attention.

 We then walked up the hill towards the fort. It was very pleasant under the trees and before we knew it we were entering the upper gate into the old town. 

There’s Bluey down there

We followed the signs to Samuels Fortress and paid 60mkd each to enter which allowed us to walk the battlements that were restored in 2003. From here we enjoyed the beautiful views of the lake and the town. Archaeologists have found evidence that an original fortress was built here in 4th C by Phillip II of Macedon (the one buried in the tomb in Vergina). 

We then descended the cobbled streets to the Church of St.Clement. He built a crypt where he was buried in 916 and the tomb still exists today. Although the original church had been reconstructed many times especially during the Ottoman Empire, in 2002 it was restored and looks quite magnificent. Excavations inside and around the church have revealed underground tunnels and crypts, including Roman ruins of a basilica. 

We then walked past the Ancient Theatre built in 200BC and is the only Hellenistic type in the country. It’s preservation was due to it having been buried by the locals after the demise of the  Romans due to them having used it as a place of executions of the Christians. 

Next we saw the Church of St.Sophia whose present form was from the 11th and 14th centuries. The interior has many well preserved frescoes from that time. 

Feeling peckish we went in search of a restaurant and ended up choosing one of many on the water front. It was a pleasant spot with a great view but unfortunately the food was mediocre.

 We counted our losses and continued to explore the old town. We followed a path and board walk along the shore which took us past lots of bars set up in small alcoves between the cliffs and water. 

On the end point sat the Chuch of St.John possibly built in the 13thC. Some lovely frescoes were discovered in 1964. 

From here we continued on the path that took us around the hill towards Bluey. Later we went for a walk along the lake to discover a large resort and then a very old camp ground. 

Then we walked the inner streets and glimpsed the lives of the locals, with the old and run down against the new.