Orkney Islands South East, Scotland

Day 39/Scotland 16/Orkney 2

Travelled: 78km

Stay: Kirkwall- free parking with view of harbour N58.9858 W2.9692

Visited: Churchill Barriers, Italian Chapel £3pp, the Gloup and Brough of Deerness, Kirkwall

Unfortunately this morning the rain and wind continued and we have no motivation for a beach walk. Instead we drive Bluey off South Ronaldsay Island and cross a Churchill Barrier to the next Island Burray. There are 4 barriers, now causeways, that were built during WWII by Italian POWs as a defense against further attacks from the German’s after a submarine sunk the battleship Royal Oak in 1939, killing over 800 men.

 We drove through Burray and Glimps Holm Islands before stopping on Lamb Holm to look at the Italian Chapel. It was built, mainly from scrap materials, by the Italian POWs that were quartered on this island whilst they built the barriers. The photos of the interpretive panels tell the story. 

We then crossed the last barrier onto the Mainland Island of Orkney. We ventured to the Far East corner to have a look at the Gloup ( a collapsed sea-cave )

 and the Brough of Deerness (a large stack that is the site of an early Christian Monastery of the Celtic Church where hermits lived simple lives). 

Although the rain and wind remained our constant companion, we appreciated the beautiful coast line and natural wonders. We then zigzagged our way along country roads through fertile country scattered with sheep and cows to the remote Rerwick Head. We had a some lunch but then lost enthusiasm to walk in the wet weather to more WWII remains similar to yesterday. So we continued on to Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney. It was first mentioned in 1046 although there is evidence of dwellings from the Iron Age. It became an important political and trading centre for the Viking North Atlantic Kingdom. 

After parking near Tesco we braved the weather and headed for St Magnus Cathedral. 

 It is known as the ´Light in the North’ founded in 1137 by Viking, Earl Rognvald in honour of his uncle St.Magnus (who was Earl of Orkney and had been a good man that had been executed by his cousin). Both their remains are here. 

There are many grave stones flanking the walls.

 Hanging from a pillar is a 17thC Mort Brod (wooden death notice), this one commemorates a Kirkwall glazier. 

There was a memorial to those who died on the HMS Royal Oak. 

There was also a memorial to Dr John Rae, explorer of the Canadian Artic. 

We then walked around the Bishop and Earl Palaces ( unfortunately closed today). 

We strolled down the pedestrian street to the harbour and then back to Bluey. Did a quick shop and then parked up for the night.