Birdsville Queensland

It was a peaceful night and we woke to another fresh morning and blue skies.

Today we continued 120km south to Birdsville. The landscape flattens out , with patchwork of grassy plains and Gibba stone.  

Along the way we stop at various spots. The first is at the Carcory Bore rest stop. We notice steam where the hot 98° water is coming out of ground. The bore was drilled in 1954 to a depth of over 800 metres tapping into the Great Artesian Basin.

The Carcoory Homestead was built in 1877 of local limestone by Hector and Norman Wilson. After years of drought and the loss of 4,000 bullocks, Carcoory was abandoned by Sir Sydney Kidman in 1906.

There were a few quirky things… the ‘opp shop’ (abandoned white goods), outdoor table and benches and a ‘shoe tree’.

Just before town we had a look at the Waddi Trees, one of Australia’s rarest plants, has a spiky, needle-like leaf and thick bark. It is slow growing, only 15cm per year, and is extremely hard wood. It was put to a number of uses by the local Aboriginals and European settlers. These trees are found on the fringe of the Simpson Desert. 

We arrive in Birdsville, one of Outback Australia’s most recognised frontier town.

Once a notorious place through which cattle drovers moved their stock.

During the early 1900’s ‘road trains” of over 50 camels would bring supplies to the town.

Although the population is about 100, during its famously known races and music festivals, there can be over 5,000 here.  The town is gearing up for such an event next weekend…

All the usual services are available, including the pub, where we go and get some lunch and have a beer. The historic hotel was built in 1884. The front bar has some classic displays.

We watch a video about the Diamantina Shire at the information centre and read about some of the towns history.

We have a look at the old Australian Inland Mission Hospital that had been rebuilt in 1953. There was lots on information here.

The Royal Hotel was built in 1883 but unfortunately has been left in ruins.

Up until 2018 the town got 25% of its electricity from the steam of the waters drawn from the artesian bore. 

Another historic building was the courthouse built in 1890. 

We top up with a bit of fuel before finding a spot in the huge free camp in the Town Common. There are already lots of people camped here in readiness for the races. 

We walked down to the old Diamantina River crossing which showed us the evidence of the force of water from the recent floods..

124km today 

Bedourie Queensland

For the 3rd night in a row we have been woken in the middle of the night by different things… 1st night in Mt Isa at 1 am by a wiz bang, 2nd night at Dajarra dam by weird noise I thought may have been a mouse but after some investigation ended up being a moth trapped in the window sill and then last night by the wind gushing through making us dash out at 4am to roll up awning. So we looked forward to our morning coffee before packing up to head out of Boulia. Although the sun was shinning in the clear blue sky, the weather has noticeably turned and there is a definite chill in the air… from 34° to 19°!

On our way out we spot the camels once again.

We fill up with the cheapest fuel for a while @ $2.12 and it was the first time we a had to buy fuel via an app. We then stopped just after crossing the Burke River, reading some of the information boards there.

We also drive past the golf course.

Along the 196km to Bedourie we drove past the Tropic of Capricorn. The last time was on Day 17 as we drove to Newman Western Australia (we are now Day 105!).

Broglas

Flood water monitors found next to rivers and creeks 

We drive up to the Vaughan Johnson Lookout which was named after former Member for Gregory, in recognition for his advocacy and efforts made towards the advancement of the sealed road network in Western Queensland.

From the top there was some stunning views of the Eyre Creek and Georgina River floodplains and the escarpments on the western boundaries. 

There was also a toilet and picnic shelter, along with interpretation panels providing good information on early pastoralism and transportation.

Loo with a view…

Wild dingo

Lots of galas

We arrived in Bedourie around 12 noon. It’s a small town with a population of 120 people and is perched on a sand dune surrounded by Eyre Creek. It’s the administrative centre for the Diamantina Shire which is the same size as Hungary! 

The town was once a major watering and rest stop in the 1880s for drovers moving cattle from the Northern Territory and northwest Queensland to the customs collection point in Birdsville, 200 kilometres to the south. Amongst others, Sir Sidney Kidman was one of the early station owners in the district. He even owned The Royal Hotel at one point.

Bedourie is also the birthplace of the world-famous Bedourie Camp Oven! Borne out of necessity under a tree during the 1920s by a tin smith, the Bedourie Camp Oven was constructed for the drovers and cameleers who were having problems with their outback cookware. The cast iron ovens they carried were cracking and breaking under the harsh conditions of the outback. In 1945 R.M.Williams began selling the ovens. 

We had a look at The Pisé House (mud hut) built in 1896 and a rare example of rammed earth building that has survived. 

We also had a dunk in the artesian spa that can relieve aches and pains in its 40° warm waters coming from the Bedourie Great Artesian Bore drilled back in 1905, as well as the 25m, 30° swimming pool. 

We decided that a camp along the Eyre Creek was more our thing , so we drove 68km out of town to Cuttaburra Crossing rest area offering toilet and dump point. This is a permanent waterhole and home to many bird species. We were first to arrive at 2pm and were later joined by a few other campers.

Swallow nests in the bird hide

Fish scales heheh

Snake skin…

Buster repairs

270km today