Ebro River Spain

Day 16 Saturday 30 May 2026

Today we travelled west, mainly following the Elbro River via gorges and fertile valleys. We saw a salt mine, an ancient tower and a medieval village, then finished the day again in the shade on the banks of the Ebro River in Valdenoceda.

After a bit of a sleep in (for us) we left our tranquil spot on the banks of of the Ebro River around 9am. We chose the back road route to our first destination, ANANA, taking us about an hour. 

The road to the motorhome parking was a bit narrow (it’s possible that the GPS chose the wrong way). Anyway we make it in one piece, park up, have breakfast and then venture off to have a look at the salt mine.

Its one of the oldest salt factories in the world. The oldest evidence of salt extraction at the valley dates from about 7000 years ago, in the Neolithic. The evaporation of water was achieved by heating the water in ceramic pottery. During Roman times, salt ponds for evaporation were introduced. A unique and extensive network of wooden channels distribute the water to the most remote corners of the Salt Valley. Its prized salt is completely pure, as it comes from springs from an ancient sea of more than 200 million years. 

During the early 20th century, new materials like concrete were introduced, while the number of ponds increased. The profitability of salt production fell drastically in the second half of the 20th century. This led to the near abandonment of salt production, and the structures of the valley fell into disrepair. It is now a tourist attraction. You can view it from the street or pay €10 for a tour. Unfortunately there were no English tours today.

Another fly screen door idea… squished aluminum wine bottle caps…

Not far away was The Varona Family's Palace-Tower. The origin of this tower dates back to the end of the 14th or start of the 15th century. The tower stands out on one side of the complex. The whole building is defended by a crenellated barbican and walls with arrow slits, as well as a wide moat filled with water. Unfortunately it was closed today… 

So we continued on to FRIAS, is a historic medieval town on a hill above the river Ebro, and has been a strategic point to cross the river on routes leading to the Cantabrian Sea. It’s a lovely drive there as we follow the Ebro River via the Sobron gorge.

As we approach it’s not hard to see FRIAS as it is perched on a rocky hill.

 It appears to be a popular tourist destination. We eventually find ourselves in the overflow carpark and make our way UP into the village. We admire the view of the castle from the street below.

Then we popped in for a bite to eat and drink in one of the numerous bars. 

We were then ready to tackle the rest of the village making our way to the top where a church and the castle reside. We enjoyed the views of the surrounding countryside and then found out the castle was closed between 2-4pm… so we admired the castle from the outside.

There’s Bluey… in the lower carpark

We strolled back down out of the village to a lookout that the houses built on the edge of the cliff and what they call the ‘hanging houses’.

 As we drive away we stopped to have a look at the medieval bridge, originally a Roman structure. It is 143 meters in length and has 9 arches. It was refurbished in the 14th century when a defensive tower with arrow-holes and battlements were built in the center. This tower also functioned as a medieval toll point.

Although it wasn’t as hot as the last couple of days, we still went in search of a shady spot. After a failed attempt we stuck it lucky in Valdenoceda. We couldn’t really get any closer to the Elbro River. A few locals came to also enjoy the lovely picnic area as the cool change came later in the evening.

146km today

Rioja Valley Spain

Day 25, Friday 29 May 2026

Today we drove around the Rioja wine region, stopping to see a few villages. Some we had been to before. The region is one of the most famous wine regions in Spain and is home to over 600 bodegas which range from large producers to small local family-run cellars. 

As temperatures sore up into the late 30° we end the day in the shade just out of Haro.

As per our usual routine, we had our coffee and set off early in the cooler part of the day. We used the dump point and filled up with fuel. It’s a lot cheaper in Spain @ €1.65 in comparison to France €2.19.

The first village for the day was FUENMAYOR, located in the Ebro valley, it is a historical village made up of palaces and mansions that reflects its past and present wealth, based on the production of grapes and wine.

Impressive coat of arms on some of the buildings

Next we popped in to ELCIEGO (visited 2022).It  has a large number of stately homes and palaces with coats of arms and sumptuous iron balconies. 

Lovely shaded square

Church is closed.

There are also many wine cellars. Among them Marqués de Riscal, designed by Frank Gehry, stands out.  The metallic structure of titanium, twisted and colored in pink, gold and silver reflects the reddish tones of the red wine, the gold of the mesh and the silver of the bottle cap of their wine.

On a high natural hill and surrounded by thick walls stands LAGUARDIA (2014), the main town of the Rioja Alavesa.  Its position was an important military post, It's palaces and churches denote its historical importance. All around, and as far as the eye can see, a wide tapestry of vineyards surrounds the village.

We strolled around.  

Sculpture of shoes and bags pay tribute to the traveler

Pretty narrow streets

A grand entrance

View of Ysios winery famous building

Large puppets for festivals

We were just in time to see  the Town Halls clock that has three automated figurines that occasionally dance to mark the hour.

Before we left we enjoy a refreshing beer and a bit to eat.

Ham croquettes and sardines and pepper fritters

We thought this was our favourite village visited today.

Not far we managed to find an unusual remains of a burial site that had carved coffins in the solid rock.

Labastida was a medieval fortress that became a prosperous village for wine producers. We have a walk into the main square and to the church but like the others, we are disappointed to find it closed. 

The village of Haro is officially named the capital of the La Rioja wine region of Spain. Last time we where here in 2014 the wine throwing festival was in full swing. We walked up into the lovely main square.

 Then through the small alley ways dotted with bars. Not quite the same atmosphere as Logrono but pretty close. We choose a bar and have a drink and something to eat.

Pulpos Galicia 

Mushies and a burger

Then it’s time to search for a shady spot and just out of town is a lovely picnic area. The locals come and go to cool off in the river… we had contemplated having a dip but declined after seeing a dead fish float by! So contented ourselves with dipping our toes in the little brook just next to us.

69km today